Asian Beauty 101
Emulsions vs. Creams vs. Gels
Emulsions, creams, and gels are all types of skincare products that are used to moisturize and nourish the skin. While they have some similarities, they also have some key differences that make them suitable for different skin types and concerns.
Mositurizers in Asian Beauty
In Asian beauty (AB), skincare is often approached with an emphasis on layering lightweight products for optimal hydration, nourishment, and protection. This philosophy influences how gels, emulsions, and creams are formulated and used in skincare routines. Here's how each fits into Asian beauty, including Korean and Japanese skincare practices:
Emulsions
Role in Routine
- Often used after toners (or essences) and serums, before heavier creams
- Lightweight moisturizing layer that preps the skin for subsequent products
Hydration Without Heaviness
- Asian skincare places a strong emphasis on keeping the skin hydrated without clogging pores
- Emulsions provide moisture while maintaining a light texture that works well under additional layers of skincare
Versitility
- In AB, emulsions can serve different functions based on skin type
- For oily or combination skin: an emulsion might act as the final moisturizing step, offering enough hydration without the need for a cream
- For dry or mature skin: emulsions add an extra layer of moisture that is then sealed in with a cream
Popular Ingredients
- Soothing and hydrating ingredients like hyalyronic acid, green tea extract, ceramides and centella asiatica
- These ingredients cater to the AB ethos of nourishing the skin with natural, effective compenents
Featured Products:
Hada-Labo's Gokujyun Premium Hydrating Emulsion is a J-Beauty product that is formulated to be deeply hydrating with it's eight types of hyaluronic acid. Designed to provide intense moisture and strengthen the skin’s barrier. Its rich yet non-sticky formula absorbs quickly, making it ideal for dry to combination skin and those with dehydration concerns. This emulsion offers long-lasting hydration while being gentle enough for sensitive skin.
The Etude House Soon Jung 10 Free Moist Emulsion is a hypoallergenic lightweight moisturizer formulated with panthenol and madecassoside to hydrate and repair damaged skin. Free from harsh chemicals, it sooths and moisturizes all skin types, especially sensitive skin. It absorbs quickly into the skin barrier and helps maintain a healthy low pH level.
Creams
Diverse Textures:
- Unlike some Western skincare products that can be thick and heavy, AB creams come in a variety of textures
- Users can choose from the diversity of "moisture locking" water creams to lightweight gels-cream hybrids that best suites concerns and skin types
Philosophy:
- In AB, the final step is "moisture locking" is critical
- Creams are often used at the end of the routine to seal in all previous applied hydration layers
- Aligns with the AB skincare concept of "layering" where lighter products are applied first, then heavier products
Day vs. Night Creams:
- Day creams have lightweight, mattifying properties
- Night creams are richer in texture and packed with ingredients like ceramides, peptides, and brightening agents such as niacinamide
Popular Ingredients:
- AB creams often include ingredients like snail mucin, rice extract, fermented ingredients, ceramides and squalane
- Not only do they hydrate but also support skin health by enhancing the skin barrier, promoting cell renewal and providing anti-aging benefits
Featured Products:
Dr. Athea's 345 Relief Cream is lightweight moisturizer for all skin types including those with sensitive skin. Its formulation includes 3 ingredients for blemishes, 4 ingredients to nourish, 5 ingredients to soothe. Its non-greasy texture hydrates post-acne skin, while fading dark spots, regulates oil production and calms redness.
The AESTURA Atobarrier 365 Cream is a powerful barrier-reinforcing cream formulated with hydrating ceremide capsules that provide up to 120 hours of deep hydration. Suited for all skin types including sensitive and dehydrated skin, this cream offers long-lasting hydration and protection for the skin barrier.
The Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream is a multi-functional moisturizer formulated with ginseng water and niacinamide to brighten, hydrate and improves wrinkles. It delivers long-lasting moisture and nourishment while providing a glowy finish making it suitable for all skin types, especially dry and dull skin. The cream also has a duel function to be used as a sleep mask for enhanced hydration.
Gels
Lightweight Moisture:
- A favorite in AB, especially in K-beauty (Korean Beauty) due to their refreshing, lightweight nature
- Offers hydration with minimal residue
- Ideal for hot, humid temperatures
- Provides mositure without the risk of clogging pores, popular for oily, acne-prone or sensitive skin
Use in Layering:
- In AB routines, the principle of layering lightweight products is vital
- Gel moisturizers or sleeping masks are used as either standalone moisturizer for those with oily skin or an additional hydrating layer for those with drier skin types
Specialized Gels:
- Soothing gels (like aloe vera or green tea gels) that can be used as masks or spot treatments
- Sleeping packs (overnight gel masks) are designed to lock in hydration overnight
Popular Ingredients:
- Hyaluronic acid, bamboo water, aloe vera and niacinamide
- These ingredients align with the AB goal of achieving plump and dewy skin
Featured Products:
ISNTREE Aloe Soothing Gel Fresh Type is a lightweight, non-greasy moisturizer with 99% Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract that soothes dehydrated, oily or irritated skin. A fresh cooling sensation is felt when applied, absorbing quickly into the skin. It can also be used as an after-sun treatement and soothing mask. Formulated with hyaluronic acid and panthenol, it calms redness, and maintains moisture expecially for oily and sensitive skin types.
The Naturie Skin Conditioning Gel is an award-winning moisturizer that provides deep hydration while strengthening the skin barrier. Its non-greasy fragrance-free and hypoallergenic formula transform into a liquid upon application, leaving the skin feeling fresh even during hot weather. It is great for all skin types including sensitive skin!
Comparing Emulsions, Gels, and Creams
| Emulsions | Gels | Creams | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Definition | An emulsion is a mixture of two immiscible liquids (usually oil and water) with one dispersed in the other. To keep them from separating, emulsifiers (like lecithin or polysorbate) are used. | Gels are water-based formulations containing thickening agents (like carbomers) that give them a jelly-like consistency. | Creams are thicker formulations made by combining both oil and water components, typically in a 50/50 ratio. They contain more oil than emulsions. |
| Texture | Typically lightweight, they can range from fluid to more viscous textures. | Lightweight, cool, and often non-greasy. They are easily absorbed into the skin. | Rich, thick, and can vary from lightweight to heavy, depending on the oil-to-water ratio. |
| Characteristics | Types: There are two primary types: Oil-in-water (O/W): Tiny oil droplets dispersed in water; lighter and less greasy. Water-in-oil (W/O): Tiny water droplets dispersed in oil; richer and more moisturizing. | Gels usually have a high water content, making them refreshing and suitable for oily or acne-prone skin. | Due to their higher oil content, creams are more moisturizing and create a protective barrier on the skin. They can be absorbed more slowly than gels. |
| Use | Ideal for moisturizing the skin without feeling heavy. Emulsions are commonly found in products like serums and lotions. | Gels are often used in products like hydrating gels, eye gels, and gel-based moisturizers, delivering moisture without a heavy residue. | Ideal for dry to very dry skin types, especially for use in drier climates or as night treatments. Commonly found in moisturizers, body creams, and hand creams. |
What is the difference?
Emulsions
Emulsions are skincare products that are made by combining oil and water. They have a lightweight, milky consistency, and are easily absorbed by the skin. Emulsions are typically used as a step in the skincare routine after cleansing and toning, and are suitable for all skin types, including oily and combination skin.
Creams
Creams are thicker and more moisturizing than emulsions. They are typically made from a combination of water, oil, and an emulsifying agent, and have a rich, thick consistency that is best suited for dry or mature skin. Creams are typically used as a step in the skincare routine after cleansing, toning, and applying an emulsion, and are best suited for people with dry or dehydrated skin.
Gels
Gels are lightweight, water-based skincare products that have a thin, jelly-like consistency. They are typically made from a combination of water, glycerin, and a thickening agent, and are easily absorbed by the skin. Gels are typically used as a step in the skincare routine after cleansing, toning, and applying an emulsion and a cream, and are best suited for people with oily or combination skin.